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We noticed today that the solar wasn't coming in from the app even though the sun is out. The bulk light is flashing and on the app it says the battery state is Off. Previous it shows its on Bulk. We've done nothing different from yesterday to today, and the app was showing some solar this morning being drawn for three hours and then nothing?
Hi all, I believe my off-grid charge controller is experiencing the same issue as seen in this post:. Unfortunately I don't have a spare controller to swap out for testing. I don't currently have logging but plan to in the future. I've only caught it doing this type of thing when I'm physically looking at the unit. The system usually runs as expected but I've seen it do this several times a day to not noticing it happen for a week or so. The watts coming from the panels and going to the batteries fluctuates from 0 to the max watts available at the time, stays there for a second and then falls back to 0 and starts that cycle again.
The battery voltages rise and lower accordingly. I've yet to see it "fix" itself or stop doing it on it's own. This resets it back to bulk and the charge cycle operates as normal. Any help would be appreciated! I can't find it. PLEASE do not tell me that Victron was foolish enough to mount this code on the back side of the unit because that would be incredibly short sighted.
I would need to remove two other devices, 6 wires in a space the size of a small kitchen cabinet working down a 2 foot deep hole. Please tell me you located on one of the sides of the device Like EVERY other manufactures solar equipment that I have installed over the past 33 years. Mains to Priority, Inverter to Alternative. Everything works perfectly. The inverter runs 16mm2 power cables which are 1m long. Oddly if i disconnect all loads from the inverter monitors etc the filax will successfully start without mains power connected, but after connecting loads carefully, it disconnects.
Connecting mains power 'reassures' it that everything is ok and then all is fine and cut-in cut-out works perfectly. The irony of this fault is after a full power down, you would need to steam back to port to connect to the mains, to reconnect your inverter. The VictronConnect App freezes on the update screen when connecting to the regulator and does not allow connection or update.
I have managed to update regulators using the older version of the app v5. However, a few days ago, the battery ran completely flat as the battery had not been charged. At the time I chalked this up to bad weather, but since then, the sun has come out and the charge current remains at 0 watts, 1 watt or 2 watts. I'll have heaps of questions but i'll post them one by one. The boat already has a v system and this will be integrated into it, however I have some questions.
The boat has a couple of heavy draw items the main one being the water heater works on engine but also w element which I obviously do not want to be connected to the Multiplus. As an aside I have ah of batteries split into 2 banks of 4x ah each bank on either side of the boat, combined by a selector switch and cables all the same length to the centre of the boat. I have a cerbo gx in the cabin. There I have a shunt from before and want to add an extra shunt. The plan is for it to measure the 24v dc current coming from the wind turbine Primus Windpower Air 40, 24V into the battery bank.
The system worked fine for 2 months and then started this erratic disconnecting and reconnecting, checked all fuses and crimping. Have 2 other exact systems running and working fine. The only difference between the systems to this one giving problems is that this one is using v1. I need to put 1. I've been fiddling around in VE Configure 3, and I'm not yet able to find the temperature reading on the battery.
I have plugged in the temp sensor, but I don't see a reading anywhere, or any way to make sure the charger doesn't activate if the battery is too cold. So my question is, with the given devices, what's my best option for ensuring the charger doesn't activate if the battery is too cold? IE, say I arrive to a frozen RV, the heating pad needs time to warm the battery before it's safe to charge, and I'm connected with shore or generator power, which would, assuming the voltage is low enough, start charging the battery.
I'd feel a lot better with a hard wired connection. I'm not sure how the internal temperature sensor for the MPPT controllers would work. The docs aren't entirely clear there. So I suppose to summarize my question s , given the above components, what's the best way to disengage the MPPT controllers and the charger when the battery is too cold?
One battery is fine but the other is on continuous alarm. I have tried to charge this separately using 52V and PS the voltage reading is taken from multiplus II with charging turned off. Have installed a ESS system with a fronius primo 8. There is an undocumented as far as I know! This is documented in the manual. The light has an additional function that I have not seen documented anywhere.
The part about the current shut down IS documented, but the flashing temperature light is not. This shuts down the charger, and turns on the inverter. I have inherited a battery backup system that the original installer is no longer in business. We have changed the batteries over as the original ones were second hand and have now failed. I have replaced the batteries and configured the Muiltplus to suit the new batteries and registered my VRM portal to see h this system. The issue I have is that the original installer created a installer password on the colour controller which is restricting me from any settings changes on the colour controller, is it possible to generate an overwrite password so we can modify settings and enable remote changes to the system?
I have 10 W, 36V,5A panel taken from my house and will be using these for my offgrid holiday cabin. My calcalutaions tells me that i can use 4 panels connected in parallel which would give me W. Could i get away with 5 panels? I have 2 temp sensor connected to my Cerbo GX. Input nr2 is unstable, and suddenly goes from ok to "reverse polarity". I have changed the sensors, but it still happens. Get degrees. Skip to main content. Find posts, topics, and users Can - Skylla-i Control GX [image] [image].
That would be awesome! Best Denis [image]. Can data? Comments on design and sizing? Hi Everybody, As it happens, my design is very similar to the example given by Victron in the Pylontech manual. Now the questions: 1. Sorry for the many qurstions. Connecting the Carlo Gavazzi ET energy meter - no power - not wired correctly by electrician? Hi there. Can anyone confirm this, so I can ask him to come back and get it installed correctly please?
Thanks very much, Gareth. Is there likely an issue with the MPPT or the connection to the batteries? System specs: 4xw panels w , 4xah SLA batteries 48v , firmware version 2. Installed in July Please tell me you located on one of the sides of the device Like EVERY other manufactures solar equipment that I have installed over the past 33 years Is it possible to remove the icon for AC Input and just keep the generator icon?
This works fine but I have noticed some odd quirks of this setup. Victron Connect v5. Is anyone else experiencing this issue? Many Thanks, Adam. I was looking after the victron wiring diagram but i do not understand something it seems there is an error ,take a look at my picture , i do it in purple [image].
Here are the facts of my set-up: Two 12v panels wired in parallel, one 10W, one 80W. Always-on load of a Raspberry Pi, plus weather sensing instruments and WiFi antenna. Usually draws 0. Two lead-acid batteries in parallel, 12v 12Ah, and 12v 2. The controller has not been disconnected or powered down since first installation. The RPi had an uptime of over a month when the battery stopped charging. When the battery died and the load was shut-off automatically, I kept the load disconnected to allow the battery to recharge over several days.
However, the controller only reported a yield of watts all day. Compared to my average yield of watts all day. Here is what I've checked so far: Both solar panels are working fine and gave a 20v output under moderate sunlight for the UK. I connected the batteries directly to the solar panels with my multimeter in-line. It showed a draw of Amps. Immediately I heard a hissing sound like gas escaping from the batteries, and I stopped. Am I an idiot for directly connecting the panels and batteries, or does this show the batteries are toasted and the controller is not at fault?
I both visually inspected and continuity tested the 20A fuse and it is fine. I have reset the charge controller to default settings. Observations of the charge controller when operating: Despite only charging the battery with watts, the status of the controller shifted from bulk, to absorbtion and then float within a few minutes.
When set to 'battery equalisation' mode, the charge current rose to what I would normally expect at that time of day, watts. Apologises if this doesn't really make sense. Please feel free to ask any questions. One cerbo gx, Two shunts to measure another DC supply Hi.
Need firmware 1. Or will it damage the devices? If so what would be a good option to have everything hooked up together? What is the best way to prevent charging Tesla battery when too cold? Before the Question, relevant system details. Is it possible to recover a pylontech battery from less than Thanks in advance. Sign in Join My AliExpress 0. Sign Out. Sign in Sign in with. Buyer Feedback. Buyer Summary. AliExpress Buyer Since: 10 Nov Positive Feedback is calculated by dividing the past 6 months of 4 and 5 star ratings by the total number of positive and negative ratings from the same time period.
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